Lethal RDA by Angelcigs

One of my favorites here lately the Lethal RDA is a very well set up and machined piece of work. The Lethal is right in line with a lot of the new RDA”s I have been seeing come out with all top air intake. It’s air flow is very high and can be set up for single and dual coil builds. With the air flow wide open you can compare the flow to that of a Vetex V2 or Freakshow wide open.

Box as it came. All your normal stuff, replacement O-rings and screw driver. Standard drip tip adapter and something all RDA’s should come with full set of replacement post screws.

It stands out from the rest of my RDA’s with the nicely etched skull and wide bore permanent delrin drip tip. It also comes with an adapter for the top that lets you use normal sized drip tips.

Flavor is right up there with the best of them and with the air flow can chase clouds nicely. The inner chamber struck me as odd with how the tops of the post sit higher the the intake holes also at the top. This lets you put your coil directly under the intake. Juice well is nice and deep allowing for quite a lot of juice.

Top cap broken down into it’s parts.

Final thought’s. I’m really liking the way some of these new atomizers are going. For what ever reasons the air flow being directed as this is, it gets both great vapor production with some outstanding flavor mixed in. Also even with some of my hottest builds the vape still remains cool and I had to go down to 0.05 ohms to really get the vape warm/hot. The best build seem to be a dual 6 wrap, 24 gauge, 3mm coil IMO.

Purchasing link: 

http://www.angelcigs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=lethal

ZERO GRAVITY CLONE RDTA

The Zero Gravity is a rebuildable dripping tank atomizer, or RDTA. It incorporates elements of tank style atomizers as well as dripping style atomizers. From top to bottom: The drip tip is a 10mm wide bore tip, there is a grub screw at the top of the tank that is removed to show a fill hole, the tank itself holds 3.5ml of liquid, directly below the tank is your attached top cap which has three 2mm airflow holes that have a beveled edge to reduce whistle, the build deck itself is a three post design, there is a 1.2mm drip well, and a non-adjustable firing pin within the 510 threads.

Starting with the tank itself, the design is excellent. The tank section is very simple and easy to use. There is a chimney section inside the tank that leads straight down to the build deck. At the base of this chimney is a hole that leads to a small tube facing inwards from the tank to the deck. Around the chimney you have a spring, your drip tip sits atop, and the tank itself screws around the whole assembly. The drip tip is used to push liquid from the tank to your coils. The push action is smooth and I have never felt like it would get pushed down in my pocket or accidentally. One of the things that really sets the Zero Gravity apart from other RDTAs on the market is the fact that the drip tube in the chimney sits directly over the center of the build deck, allowing for a direct shot of liquid to the base, where your wicks can soak up liquid evenly and efficiently.

Next to the drip tip there is a fill hole, and filling is fairly quick and easy. The best way to fill is with a syringe, but a needle tip bottle or plastic pipette will work as well. Before you fill you must cover the tube sticking out from the chimney with your finger, then remove your grub screw, fill, replace the grub screw, and you are good to go. The tank is marketed as holding 3.5ml of liquid, but I have found that it will take closer to 4ml with no issues. I have never had any leaking or overflow, and after using this filling method a few times it feels like second nature. At the base of the tank is the top cap itself, which has three airflow holes. This allows for a single or dual coil build.

Also included with the Zero Gravity is a standard style RDA top cap that retains the 10mm wide bore drip tip built into the cap, as well as the three 2mm airflow holes. This is a really nice addition that means you are getting a great dripper and an awesome RDTA for the price of one.

The build deck itself is a tried and true three post design with a few tweaks. The negative posts being milled into the deck makes it feel sturdy and reliable. The drip well itself is 1.2mm, so you can hold a fairly significant amount of liquid on the deck. There are small portions of the drip well cut out on either side of the center post, allowing for a full, steady  airflow directly to your coils, as well as a bit of adjustment if you prefer a tighter draw.

In conclusion, the advantages of an RDTA over an RDA are pretty readily apparent. With a standard RDA you have to keep a bottle of liquid handy to drip onto your coils, whereas an RDTA includes a tank filled with liquid attached to the top cap. Almost immediately I found myself hesitating to go back to my standard drippers, simply because the ease of use and convenience of the Zero Gravity was so great. As someone who uses primarily drippers on a daily basis, the Zero Gravity  has made a complete change in the way I vape. The flavor is excellent, even more so when using the standard dripper cap. I have used single coils, dual coils, and quad coil builds in this device, all of which have performed quite well. All in all, this is a fantastic product, and I have thoroughly enjoyed using it, and plan to use it well into the future.

Images: http://imgur.com/a/6Esov

Purchasing link:  http://www.angelcigs.com/zero-gravity-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer-rdta-rda.html

Review on the Sovereign RDA

Hey guys, so here is my review for the Sovereign DNA clone. So first off lets go through the tech specs.

DEPTH: 21MM

HEIGHT: 58.5MM

WIDTH: 21MM

LIQUID VOLUME: WEIGHT: 110g

CONNECTION THREADING 510

COLOR Black MATERIAL
Stainless Steel

PACKAGE CONTENTS
1*Sovereign RDA

FEATURE 2.5mm deep drip well holds a lot of liquid.

Standard 510 connection fits most any mod device with a 510 top cap.

Negative contacts are part of the deck, not screwed in or spot welded. This means they are very solid. They also feature 2mm wire holes.

Recessed airflow control cap o-rings give it a tight seal but allow the cap to be adjusted easily.

Includes stainless steel pawn drip tip

Ok now that we are done with that lets begin our review.

The first thing you will notice is this thing has a look all its own. This will be a selling or sticking point for a lot of people. I mean the thing looks like something Sauron used to crush the will of man. Personally I dig the thing. Whether you love it or hate it you kinda have to respect that a company is willing to think outside the box. The unique style of this RDA also helps to disguise the fact that it isn’t 22mm.

Alright let’s go through everything you get.

The box Over all it’s solid for what it is. I like the image they have come up with so that’s a bonus.

Let’s open it up. So as you can see everything comes in its own little bag. Lets pull all that out of there. Notice that there are little cutouts for the RDA and the drip tip to rest in for secure transport.

Unbagging the goods All of the parts feel solid and well made.

How about some close ups?

Drip tip and RDA. There it is in all its glory.

Drip tip. This thing is a solid hunk of metal that looks like it should live on a chess board but is surprisingly comfortable to use.

Lets break it down. So here are the four parts that make up the RDA. The ‘mace head’ is your airflow with this RDA and is surprisingly effective. It can be ran in single and dual coil mode. I have tried both and was surprised with the results. Pretty solid flavor and a respectable cloud.

The deck. Pretty standard issue here. The negative posts are milled into the deck and then flat head screws work as they should. Deck was pretty dirty but a little alcohol and elbow grease and problem solved.

The deck again. Different angle on this one to show off those huge post holes. I had a 24 gauge dual coil on this deck without fighting for space in the post holes. You can also see the double o-rings at the bottom. It’s a snug fit with the cap on but at least you won’t worry about loosing it.

Removed the screws. I was looking for machine oil and other such things but thought I’d snap a pic while I was at it. Then while I was at it I got a close up of the screw looking for sharp edges, burrs or anything else that would effect the coils.

After a good scrubbing I gots to building. I build in 28 and 24 gauge wire with some twisted coils some micro coils. Dual coils. Single coils. Played with the airflow. Build from 1.5 down to .4 to get a solid feel for the thing. Somehow the pictures of this are lost to the void never to be seen again. I was using a stingray as my tester mod through all of this.

So now come the question. What do I actually put this on for it to look good. Well the answer was fairly obvious to me. Hana mod (clone). Without the super drip tip of doom its a short wide RDA and would look great on a box mod and black on black is always nice. So I go to toss it on my Hana. This is where the trouble began. I don’t know if I have one with a messed up 510 or what but it will not screw into my Hana. This is as far as it will screw in. To say I was disappointed is an understatement. You can see in that pic how good it would have looked. I did a few more test fits with what I had laying about. It did fit my 4nine, my caravelle and my nemesis but did not fit my Akuma. Like I said I think I may just have gotten one with a bad 510.

So overall what do I think about it? I like the thing. With a different drip tip and the right mod the thing could look amazing. I just wish it would have fit my Hana, it could have been a daily carry for me, as it is I’ll keep it around for when I’m doing rebuilds on other RDAs.

TL;DR: Kinda funny looking but a nice little RDA. Would buy.

Thank you to Angelcigs for the chance to review this.

Lethal RDA review

On first glance I noticed that the Lethal RDA had an incredibly large chuff top included with it and a ring beside it, along with

 spare o-rings, screws, and one of those ubiquitous little blue screwdrivers. I discovered quickly that the metal ring is a

second top for people that prefer to use a standard 510 drip tip.

I used 28 gauge kanthal wire wrapped around a 14 gauge needle 13 times for both coils. They weigh in at 1.8 ohms each giving

me a total resistance of 0.9 ohms.

I wicked the coils with cellucotton rayon and made a nice bed underneath them in the moderately large juice wells. You definitely

have plenty of room to load up enough juice for multiple full size pulls without redripping.

I tested the dripper out at 30 watts and adjusted the airflow in multiple ways since you have lots of options from tight to

incredibly open. With the airlfow completely open it is possible to make respectable clouds, but it’s obvious that this RDA was

designed with flavor in mind. I also realized very quickly that it is capable of handling a whole lot more wattage than I was able

to give it. I wouldn’t be surprised at all if this dripper could handle a 100 watt mod or more because of how much airflow it has.

I definitely like this RDA quite a bit. It has a pretty sizeable build deck and very large post holes for people who want to do

those funky twisted fused clapton coils or just incredibly large kanthal. the chuff top that’s included and a spare top to use a

510 drip tip is a very nice touch too. It’s also well made and the posts aren’t just press fit like some really cheap atties.

I highly recommend this dripper for anyone that wants an RDA that will perform at high wattage and make the flavor explode in their mouth and hates having to constantly redrip.

Aqua V2 clone from Angelcigs

I really like this atomizer, but it does have a bit of a learning curve and it’s not for new builders. To start it is both an RTA and a RDA. It comes with both a tank section and a dripper cap section. I am sorry if a few of my images were blurry. My camera was fighting me through this whole review.

This is the package as I received it from AngelCigs.

First thing I noticed when I tore down the atomizer was the odd holes in the positive and negative post. Then as I always do it got completely tore down and went strait to a bath of alcohol and water.

Aqua V2 broken down into it’s parts. In this picture you can see the sheer amount of parts this atomizer has. Starting at the top you see the two bell caps and the dripper cap section. I like how it came with a full transparent bell cap for a tank build. Then down from there you see the chimney top piece (also where your drip tip fits) and the connecting lower chimney section. Further down you see the positive and negative post. under the positive post there is the insulator. Then under the post and insulator you see the main building deck. From the deck you see the white delrin insulator/air channel piece. This piece also has an O-ring to seal the deck completely off from any juice leaking down past the post. Then you see the positive post and it’s adjustable 510 pin. Under there you see the bottom of the deck with the negative 510 threads.

Assembling the atomizer and deck.

To start I put the delrin insulator and air hole channel section into the main building deck.

Then inserted the positive post and 510 positive pin into the delrin section under the deck. Also over these two goes an insulator I some how did not have in the break down picture.

Now that the under side of the deck is assembled I move to the top of the build deck. Here you see the positive post sticking through that I had inserted from the other side.

Over this threaded positive post goes another insulator and then the main positive post itself. After those two are installed you screw in your negative post.

Now for a quick build. Here I used two 26 gauge, 7 wrap, 1.5mm micro coils. Here I also put the bottom section on the Aqua V2 so I could put it on my jig for building.

Now to wick it. This took me a few times at first. My first attempt I set it up as I would a Orchid, but soon found that I have to put the tails of the cotton down into the channels or it would leak out the air holes or just not wick very well at all. After some trial and error I found that placing the cotton just above the bottom of the channel worked perfect and wicked well. It also made it much easier to keep the tails in the channels with a bit of juice on them.

Then I flipped the bell cap over and filled the assembled tank.

Then since I knew the Aqua V2 could be set up as a hybrid all on it’s own I went to install it on one of my mods with same size threads. This is where I ran into a slight problem. Yes it will work in hybrid mode, but there is an added piece for this connection that should be able to be used. With this piece you can take off the insulator and the 510 pin and thread it onto the base of the main positive shaft. When I went to do this I found that even though the parts bag came with the added piece it was not threaded and there for was useless and could not be used. You can see in the picture that there are threads on the main positive, but the threads on the adapter are missing. In the end it will work with out this, but using it does give you a broader contact for connecting to your battery.

Okay problem found, but still able to be set up as a hybrid. I also found that if I am using a mod that does not give me as much room as the mod I was using, you can take off the 510 piece and insulator around it and let the base of the main positive contact the battery.

All together ready for vaping. One thing with this set up I found nice is first you have air flow control, but you can also turn the bell cap all the way down closing off the air intake sealing the hole tank completely for storage or pocketing. Also if you find that your wick is running dry from consecutive drags you can turn it all the way down and then open it back up in turn creating a vacuum effect that forces juice to the juice channels.

Another thing before I forget. Being this tank is convertible to a dripper tank you can remove the bell can with chimney with out spilling any juice. Just turn the tank drip tip down and unscrew the whole bell cap with chimney and no juice will be lost.

After that I vaped it for a while and then went to put on the dripper cap. Let me say that if there is any lacking in the tank design, it’s over looked once you use a dripper on this. That’s not saying the tank has issues, because it does work and function very well. Now here the first thing you see is that the drip tip is off set. This lets you be able to fill the dripper section from the drip tip with out the juice going strait into the air holes at the base of the deck. Those holes being located directly under the coils would quickly fill with juice if the drip tip was centered on the top of the cap. I love thie way the off set drip tip looks though so it’s fine. BUT WOW when you put on the dripper section increasing your air flow by 3 times or more this thing turns into a vaping beast. The flavor is so thick and heavy it’s unlike any atomizer I have ever used.

Now in the last picture here I show the inside of the chamber with the dripper section on. With the way I wicked it at first as a tank keeping the tails to the bottom of the juice channels, all you have to do is fill that area under the deck with juice, and the tails will keep the juice flowing to the coils. This works well and I tend to use more often, but if it’s let tip to far or laid on it’s side the juice will flow out of the cap air holes. To fix this all you have to do is run a quick ring of cotton around the deck threads while the cap is on. This will hold the juice and make the dripped be able to be tipped all the way over and not leak.

Final thoughts. I do really enjoy this set up. It’s nice to be able to go to work with the tank on and not have to worry about filling then come home and pop on the dripper section and vape away. The air flow while in tank mode is a little limited and I can compare the flow to slightly lower then a Orchid. I would love to see the air flow there increased and I do have some thoughts on modifying this to increase the air flow while in tank mode. In dripper mode it has it’s quirks as in there can be some leaking, but easily fixed by a ring of cotton around the deck over the tails of the cotton. Though again when in dripper mode is when the Aqua V2 shines. The flavor, yeah the flavor. It’s something you are going to have to try for yourself. It’s really hard to explain, but just simply thick… like taking a bite out of your bottle of juice. The only draw back I found was the hybrid set up piece that was included was not threaded as it should have been. Other then ALL that, threading is great, it comes with a good amount of replacement O-rings and even a spare insulator and post screws. I know I will enjoy and use this atomizer for a long time.

edit: After some looking around and messing with the Aqua V2 I found out that you can use one of what I thought were extra post screws to block off one or both other the under coil air intakes (the holes are threaded). This means you can run it in tank mode in single coil with out worry of juice going into the extra intake air hole. Also it means if you wanted to block off both air holes for a strait dripper build with no under coil air flow its possible.

Purchasing link: 

http://www.angelcigs.com/aqua-v2-style-rebuildable-atomizer-rta-rda-1-1.html

Reviewed by Will.

Bamboo Mech Mod Clone Review

Getting away from my typical RDA reviews, I bring to you the Victoria Bamboo Style Mechanical Mod 1:1

Specification:

SIZE
DEPTH: 22MM
HEIGHT: 102MM
WIDTH: 22MM
WEIGHT: 220g
SUPPORTED BATTERY 18650

CONNECTION THREADING
510

COLOR Black

MATERIAL
Stainless Steel

PACKAGE CONTENTS
Victoria Bamboo Mod
FEATURE
18650 Mechanical Mod
Smooth Magnetic Button
Copper Contacts
510 Connection
battery rattle hybrid adjustable pin
Two adjustable positive pins
Very short threaded
locking ring (1/2 Turn)
Serialized for your personal touch
So starting from the top!
You got the packaging, and the mech mod inside of the packaging, clean simple and secure.

Following the opening of the box, I took the pieces apart, here you see from left to right…
The Mod housing it’s self for the battery, with a nice logo, Black with silver rings around it which sort of looks like “Bamboo” right?

Then you got the bottom piece, showing off the 4 vent holes, the copper contact, and inside of that which you can twist off is one of the 2 magnets.

As well as the top piece for your RDA with a adjustable center pin, and as well as the outer ring being adjustable as well. As it will make contact with your battery if you adjust just that and do not want to adjust your RDA Positive screw.

Next up, You see the same setup, but showing off the numbering, and the inside of the top piece for your RDA positive screw where they meet contact. Being more of a smaller circular piece instead of a fat screw, which is great for certain RDA’s.

Now getting into some more the RDA technical features…
The bottom piece of the mech Mod the piece inside of the mech mod has a copper contact as well with the other magnet to make the connection.
Now onto the tear down.
This is the bottom piece for the magnetic switch, You got your bottom housing, the locking screw, the actual switch, the magnet, and the copper contact.

So just jumping in giving my thoughts….
The main thing I love about this, It’s super light, like bamboo hence the name of a bamboo mod. You feel the weight of the battery over the mod, it’s just really light.

The locking mechanism being half turn, well yes it does, but if its not completely locked, it still fires, so make sure you lock it completely though it’s really just a half turn.

Regarding the dual copper contact for the positive connection, this personally is terrible to me, As I do like how it touches the entire top. The reason being is that this is a VERY TIGHT enclosure for your battery, so in my eyes I see it as a safety issue, as we all know our batterys over time the casing “heatshrink wrapping” around the battery tends to get holes and tear apart ect. so this could end up making contact with both the positive and negative. We wouldn’t want that.

My suggestion? possibly a button positive battery would do the trick perfectly, or you can just simply use the Atomizer adjustable contact at the bottom, Though atomizers without one you have to adjust to use, and this is why I mentioned I did not like this.

There could have been a VERY SIMPLE solution and add 2 extra threads of length onto the center pin that is adjustable and made this work flawlessly. Even 1 could have improved it.

Moving onto another discussion, the magnets in this, It’s very powerful, and well… you feel the magnets power when you wear it in and you feel your button sliding because of the magnets force. It just feels weird, though you know a quality magnet was used.

As Mentioned above regarding the tightness of this for the battery housing, it is because there is the negative contact in the mech mod that is tightened or stuck in there by some glue or something, I did not want to ruin the mech mod but I honestly liked this feature, as no battery rattle is a great thing.

The sleek and bamboo like style of this mech mod was simply gorgeous to me, I think both man and ladies would love this.

Threading was smooth, no issues with RDA’s and and stripping, it was just a good mech mod all around besides the issues I did not like personally.

Voltage drop I won’t get into this besides saying, I didn’t notice much at all and I think it performed perfectly. One reason can be because the negative contact being inside the mod not connected to the chamber/bottom firing pin, creating lower VDROP.

Overall I would give it a 3.5/5
Pro’s:
Simple but gorgeous look
Tight battery fitting
super light setup
smooth threading
2 ways for flat RDA to mech mod “no gap”
short locking turn

Con’s:
dual positive adjustable contacts
no easy negative contact removal inside mechmod
firing button slipping from possibly strong magnet/not secured enough.
has to be completely locked to not fire

Don’t let the rating fool you, it’s a great mod, but personally 3.5/5 is what it should get from me, as I had concerns about a few things though they all work, it just isn’t practical for me as the design could have been slighty tweaked for better functionality. You can’t go wrong buying it, but there was just those things that bugged me that could have been easily fixed.

Purchasing link: http://www.angelcigs.com/victoria-bamboo-style-mechanical-mod-1-1.html

Reviewed by Cody~

Authentic Viggo and Clone Viggo from AngelCigs compare and review

I bought an authentic Viggo a while back and loved it. It’s in my hand on a daily basis while I’m at home and some times when I’m out and about. Lol easy to tell since it has quite a lot of patina and needs a good cleaning. So a few weeks ago I was shopping around the interwebs and saw the clone of it on AngelCigs and picked it up. I wanted one that I could carry to work and not worry about the authentic with it’s 220 dollar price tag I paid. Also wanted a painted version of the Viggo that would not give my hand the gang green hand of death look that all patina’ed mods tend to do.

So this is what came in the mail. It came in a nice little box with all tubes for 18350/18500/18650 just like my authentic did. Yeah the box on the authentic was a bit nicer, but eh it also came with the 220 dollar price tag. First thing I noticed was that the clone’s serial numbers were not matching on each of it’s tubes, but eh again it’s a clone and around 20 bucks so I can deal with that little issue and I rarely ever use anything other then an 18650.

When setting them side by side you can see the authentic’s logo is much deeper engraved, but still very close to the original’s appearance. It is also a bit smaller then the authentic’s logo. You can see the authentic has much more of a shine to the button then the clone, but for me I like brushed stainless more because it’s not a finger print magnet, so eh.

Now down to the parts and how are the same and how they are different. You can see as far as the buttons the outward appearance is identical but for the authentic has a silver plated copper contact pen on both bottom and top, and the clone has strait solid brass contacts. Also the clone’s battery venting is a bit better with larger holes, and it does not cover the vents as much with the delrin insulator.

Now deeper into the buttons. Once broken down into their respective parts there are not many differences here either. The only real difference I could find was that the authentic has a much more swept threading on the lock ring mechanism allowing it to lock much faster then the clone. On the authentic it can be locked at a little more then a quarter turn when the clone has to be turned a full rotation. If you notice I also had to make a new spring for my authentic because a few months after getting it the original spring collapsed. Lol It must have rolled away in one of those pictures.

The differences in the threading on each inner lock ring. Clone on top and authentic on the bottom.

The next piece of the button made me laugh. On both the authentic and the clone I had to sand the delrin insulator down for it to make good contact with the battery when pressed. On both the contact pin would not make it past the top of the delrin insulator and some batteries would work and some not. I guess that kinda shows how close the clones are when the clone has the exact same flaw as the authentic.

I also just messing around put the authentic’s button and top cap on the clone and the clones on the authentic’s. Threading there was an exact match.

Next I did a working test on both. I just did a simple compare with both using the exact same authentic Vertex V2 atomizer. Both were on par with each other on both vapor output and how fast they would both fire and get the coil to a red glow.

So in the end I could not find a significant difference between the two. Yes the authentic has a nicer box and silver plated contacts, but the clone performed at the same level as the authentic. I do love my authentic and will never part with it, but for something I can not worry about dropping, carry to work, and know is going to give me the same vape experience as the original, I can’t take anything away from the clone. It’s less then 1/10 the price and for this one, black and will not patina as much. Which is good and bad. I do like a well patina’ed mod.

Purchasing link of Clond Viggo: http://www.angelcigs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Viggo

Thanks Will for the awesome review!! Much appreciated.

Mephisto v2 1:1 clone review

Well, Recently I got the Mephisto V2 Black version and here I am to review it!

Specifications below:

Size:
DEPTH: 22MM
HEIGHT: 36MM
WIDTH: 22MM
WEIGHT: 90g

Connection Threading:510

Color: Black

Material: Stainless Steel

Feature:
22mm Diameter
Machined from 304 grade stainless steel
PEEK insulators
Silver Plated Contacts
3mm Post Holes
Dual airflow channels
6mm Deep Drip Well
Teflon Insulated Top Cap
Milled negative posts
Engraved heat sink top cap
Air Bridge Design: floating delrin insulator reduces ambient heat transfer between deck and RDA
Starting from the packaging, It comes in a Black Box, Mephisto Clearly stated on it.

Opening the box, You see the Mephisto v2, and a tool bag.

Following the unboxing looking closer at the toolbag.

The tool bag contains a flathead screwdriver, 1 spare o-ring for the Black part of the mephisto under the cover which is to control your airflow, as well as one for the entire cap of the mephisto that goes onto the RDA Deck.
2 spare Flathead screws for your Mephisto V2 as well.

Pretty much basic replacements in any RDA, though I would have like to have seen 2 spare o-rings each instead of 1 as well as 3 replacement screws instead of 2.
Looking at the deck of the Mephisto V2 you can see a good juicewell that is not too deep and in my eyes perfect for different sized builds.

Notes I want to talk about this RDA is that when I have used it, I have noticed that the airflow cover which controls the Airflow, It is easy to move, which is a good thing. This makes it effortless to increase or decrease airflow without accidentally tightening the RDA to your Mod.
The bad about it, While it moves, you may experience the inner part losing paint, It could be excess on my RDA and it hasn’t been much nor are there any signs of paint chipping off, But I have found paint specifically at the airholes a few times, so it would be best to check it out every now and then and wipe down the inner part of the black airflow control piece.

Getting back to the Airflow discussion, Though that is easy to do, it is hard for the actual RDA Cover that attaches to the deck to make it move, so you have to take it off to position your airflow holes over the coils. Another nice feature as you don’t have to adjust that when you put it on where you want it.

With the dual airflow system with a cyclops hole and then 3 smaller holes seen in the pic below, I find it way too airy for those who enjoy warm vapes.
Also you get a look at the engraving of the mephisto logo and detailing.

The reason is because the cyclops holes are actually quite big, If they made the height of them a tad bit smaller, I think it would have made it a better vape for a majority of vapers. As even covering the small 3 holes with only a bit of the cyclops hole being open it still is a airy cool vape doing a regular coil setup.

As when you make the airflow smaller, you then start to not get airflow over your coil more, therefor producing less vapor in exchange for a warmer vape, Instead of a warm vape with coil coverage of airflow.

Flavor from this, Its above average, nothing really to report personally, it gives flavor and vapor, it’s nothing impressive, but theres nothing bad either, it’s just above average due to the big cyclops airholes making it hard to pickup the flavor.

With this setup, I tried both ribbon kanthal and round kanthal, and Ribbon kanthal you may experience a problem using due to the Kanthal when tightening with the screws it slides onto the side of the screw Which makes me believe that the drill holes were also slighty bigger than they should be on the mephisto.

As I explained With Ribbon kanthal, The screws are a smaller diameter than the drilled out post holes for your wire. This results in Problems with your wire being round or flat having a annoyance of staying in place when tightening. It is a 100% design flaw with the actual RDA not a Clone problem.
Your wire will catch onto the threading of the screw and slide up the side of the holes due to this so make sure you hole your wire in place when tightening down the screws a little bit.
The best setup I used on this making use of the airflow to achieve the best personal vape experience, I used 24g round kanthal and did a Nano Coil. the airflow setup makes use of it hitting the entire coil with ease giving both flavor and vapor production.
I highly suggest to try using a Nano coil on this setup. I personally did a 10wrap 24g around a 1/16th drill bit.
I found normal setups to be bland compared to nano’s in this RDA.

It is also possible to do a Quad coil in this setup due to the wide cyclops holes.
Though for the sake of reviews, I keep coils simple and basic that anyone can do and give it from a average user area of what they would first use it for.

Being a Clone based on design and experience it’s a 4.5/5 it’s a solid clone IMO but with the paint chipping off slightly on my specific one due to excess paint or chipping of paint layers I needed to concern those to make sure no one vapes it. Else it would have gotten a 5/5 CLONE BASED.

So be careful as it’s nothing new in the clone world usually.

Actual Design based on non clone, 4/5 This is because screws don’t match diameter of holes made therefor wire slides between screw and side of holes.Not too big of a fan for the airflow, as well as the painted inside of the airflow cover.

If only the outside was painted and if the post holes matched the screws width it would have gotten maybe a 4.5/5 from me personally.

Purchasing link: http://www.angelcigs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=mephisto+v2

Lancia review

Recently I received the new Lancia RDA clone from Angelcigs and I have to say it is a beauty!

The engraving on the metal tube and matching top cap is well done and beautiful to look at.

The deck features a three post design and is extremely easy build.

The device arrived nicely packaged with the engraved metal tank top as well as a glass and polycarbonate tank section as well as a bag containing a series of different “plugs” to insert in the four holes in the bottom of the deck for custom control of the airflow from under the coils, a small allen key for the post screws, spare screws and O-rings.

Time for an actual build.

On one side of the deck, I inserted two solid plugs with no air holes.  On the other side where I was going to install my coil, I used two plugs with 2mm air holes for maximum airflow.  Once I had formed a 1.0 ohm coil widely spaced it was a matter of moments to install it in the deck placed directly over the twin air holes.  I then installed my wick and I then attached the glass tank section to the base, tamped the wick into place in the shallow drip well (about enough for about 10 drops of eE-Liquid) saturated the wick and filled the well, put on the top cap and drip tip and took my first vape.

Lots of air and lots of flavor at around 15 watts.  Then I kicked the power up to 22 watts and tried again.  Same airflow, lots warmer of course and the vapor was incredible.  And this is with one coil!

Like I said, the deck is very easy to build on so a dual coil build is no problem.  With extra effort, a quad coil build would be quite doable but then you would be running out of room for wicking material which you do need just to have additional storage for liquid.

But there is one trade off for the amazing flavor and vapor.  Like I said, the rather shallow well will only hold about 10 drops of liquid in addition to what is stored in the wick.  Anything over that amount or if you tilt the device, the liquid will leak out of the air holes, four of them (or in my case two as I had two of them plugged) on the bottom of the deck.

What this means to me that this is a great device to use at your desk or anyplace you can set it down to keep it vertical.  Not for use while driving or really carrying around in your pocket unless you want to be soaked with E-Liquid.

But if you are stationary want a fantastic vape and I have to admit being able to see your coils come to life behind the walls of the glass or the Polycarbonate tank is just pretty damn cool, you will definitely want to add this RDA to your collection!

And before I forget, it only took 3 days to be delivered to south central Ohio from the Angelcigs warehouse in California.

UncleRJ

http://www.angelcigs.com/lancia-style-rebuildable-atomizer-1-1-by-ivogo.html

Venturi RDA Review

Another Day, Another Review!
Today, I bring you the Venturi Kayfun Styled RDA Rebuildable Atomizer 1:1 Clone from Angelcigs!

First Lets read the Specs!

Specifications:

SIZE:
DEPTH:  22MM
HEIGHT: 69.6MM
WIDTH:   22MM
LIQUID VOLUME: 4.0ml
WEIGHT: 120g

CONNECTION THREADING: 510

COLOR:  Silver

MATERIAL: Stainless Steel

FEATURES:

– 22mm, Attractive, User Friendly Design
– 304 Stainless Steel
– Customizable with Included 3-Cover “Classic Collection”
– 16mm 3-Post Standard Platform with 1.25mm Lead Holes for Building Ease
– 22k Gold Plated Brass Extended Center Post (Removable and Adjustable) w/ Quad Lead Holes
– Negative Posts Integrated and Reinforced (Not Pressed)
– Ultra-Deep Juice Reservoir / Re-Drip Interval Maximized
– Removable PEEK Insulator
– O-Ring-Less
– Highly Leak-Resistant – Low Maintenance
– Fully Adjustable and Lockable Internal & External Cyclops Airflow Setting. Adjusts Internally via Turning Chimney to Desired Setting, or Externally via Twisting the Drip Tip (while unlocked)
– Exceptional Flavor Production
– RDA Type Vapor Production/Volume Retained

Getting into the review now, Opening up the box, You have the following…

FROM THE TOP!

The Hourglass/Chamber which is a Cyclops airflow, Your Deck, Positive Post Insulator, and your Positive Post.

On the Bottom…

Brake Cap, Classic Cap, and the Stratis Cap. AKA Covers, I personally call them caps because that’s all they really are to me.

Also Included is a baggy with your screwdriver, O-Rings, Spare positive post insulators, and of course your screws.

Skipping all the non needed intro, Here’s a nice lineup of the product.

On the bottom of the deck you got your typical Branding logo’s and serial number ect.

Notes to know, It is a O-Ringless design, But you can also use O-Rings, Placing them on the bottom above the Cap/Cover threads, as well as where the Hourglass/Chamber drip tip piece meets the Cap/Cover.

Personally I used it without O-Rings and have not had a single leak from over 80ML of juice yet.

Jumping right in, Here’s a closeup of the positive post installed showing the juicewell depth and also the fact you can turn this into a Quadcoil setup because of the 4 holes in the post all you have to do is adjust it so its more of a X look on the holes. While it’s deep I don’t feel I should explain any of it, it’s deep that’s all you need to know.

So lets get down to it, This atty is not for cool vape lovers if you go below a 26g Kanthal, 24G gets way too warm for me and I don’t mind a warm vape.
Why? Simply because the vapor chamber is small, it’s a bottom fed air flow, and it’s not directly over the coil, it comes under it.
While this does add it’s own flare of taste to the setup, I do not recommend 24g Kanthal and below, Anything up is A-OK. The reason is because it pretty much condenses the vapor so you get more flavor, but at the same time with the small chamber that covers your deck, it also condenses the heat from the coils and vapor too.

OF COURSE THIS IS PERSONAL OPINION AND YOUR RESULTS WILL VARY BASED ON YOUR OWN PREFERENCES.

The Chamber which looks like a hourglass to me, It just pops on and you adjust the airflow with the cyclops slits for your airflow, This on mine had resistance as I do not know if I just got a Dud or if this was intentional for improvement from what I have seen and heard, Personally I prefer this by far.

Getting into my build setup, I used 28G Kanthal, Worked great after I first tried my usual 24G setup, So it’s just my recommendation and explanation as to what I think and seem to know about this type of setup as you read above.

With the different Caps/Covers that come with it, I tried all 3 with the 24g and the 28g, The heat fins really do not make a difference with this setup as there is really no major contact with the chamber piece, It’s a gimmick in my eyes but it’s great if you want to personalize it to your preference of your Venturi.
Though this is just my personal opinion on experiencing it.
As I said “Really do not make a difference” though it does ever so slightly.

A easier explanation as to why I said it, Simply put… Your airflow comes from under the fins, in a TRI Cyclops intake for the airflow into another cyclops airflow. So With the Base screwing onto the deck, The air flows between both the Cap/Covers and the Chamber/Hourglass piece, resulting in pointless fins due to not making direct contact with atty.

So Far, The screws held up as a Clone which is Excellent, meaning it’s of great quality for materials used in this RDA, as screws tend to fail me by the 5th coil, and I am beyond that as I like to make sure I test a product as much as I can as many ways as I can.

The main feature I hate about this RDA is the Cyclops bottom airflow, It just doesn’t sit well with me as I like a very AIRY Draw, But others love it and don’t let it throw you away from it.

The main feature I love about this RDA is that it does bring out flavors quite darn well, and maybe from what I been using it and seeing, is that it also enhances additives like koolada.
sadly I don’t have a menthol E-Juice on me, But I use koolada, tried different RDA and both same setup, The Venturi enhanced the koolada in my ejuice quite a bit so it’s deffinately bringing out flavors and additives by condensing in it’s chamber.

Things I want to mention is that I was not a fan of the non-even Positive post holes with the negatives, just seems weird when they could have just done the same thing with the post by cutting it down and making the holes even with the negatives.

Overall it has been a good RDA, as it took some looking into finding what I did and did not like, so…

I personally liked how the Clone version when moving your driptip did not move the chamber, or my fresh O-Rings and Current drip tips just don’t fit it tight enough to move it. Though when moving by hand I also had to use a little power as it did not just slide without pressure.

Being a Clone Based on design and experience, I give it a 4.5/5
Actual RDA Design 3.5/5

If the RDA being a Clone or the Actual RDA came with a Drip Tip Personalized for this 3 Cap/Cover setup…
The Clone would have gotten a 5/5 (as I said based on design and experience this is not strictly based on its performance or just based on it cloning it’s original)

Then the Actual RDA would have gotten a 4/5 as I still think the cover/caps are pointless besides design and the custom driptip would have made the package more worth it to me.

I do not base everything on my personal opinion as it will vary from other users and why my ratings are set as they are.

This review is written by Cody I~

Purchasing link: http://www.angelcigs.com/venturi-kayfun-styled-rda-rebuildable-atomizer-1-1.html